Wild mushroom risotto is short grain rice cooked slowly in hot, thyme scented broth until it turns creamy, then finished with cold butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano and a pound of mushrooms seared separately so they keep their crisp edges. It takes about 50 minutes, most of it spent stirring at the stove, and serves four as a main course.
Why sear the mushrooms in a separate pan?
Mushrooms are around 90 percent water. Stir them raw into the rice and they give that water up into the pot, turn gray and soft, and never brown. Seared on their own over high heat, in a single layer, they lose their water fast and then start to color, which is where the woodsy, savory flavor comes from.
Work in two batches in a large skillet. Leave each batch untouched for 3 minutes so the undersides can brown, then toss and give it 2 more. Salt only at the end of each batch, because salt pulls out moisture and slows browning. The mushrooms wait on a plate while the risotto cooks and go back in right at the end, so their crisp edges survive. Clean them with a damp towel or a quick rinse right before cooking, then dry them well. Soaked mushrooms won't brown until all that water has cooked off.
Which wild mushrooms work in risotto?
A mix beats any single variety. Cultivated cremini give body, while oyster and maitake bring texture and a deeper flavor. Most supermarkets now sell all three, and many sell a boxed blend labeled wild mushrooms.
| Mushroom | What it adds | How to prep |
|---|---|---|
| Cremini | Meaty body, holds its shape | Slice 1/4 inch thick |
| Shiitake | Chew and a smoky savor | Discard stems, slice caps |
| Oyster | Silky texture, crisp edges | Tear into small clusters |
| Maitake | Frilly edges that brown well | Tear into bite-size pieces |
| Chanterelle | Fruity, peppery perfume | Brush clean, halve large ones |
| Dried porcini | Intense, concentrated flavor | Soak 20 minutes, chop, strain the liquid |
Chanterelles are expensive, so a handful mixed with cremini goes a long way. Dried porcini are the cheapest way to add depth, and their soaking liquid can replace a cup of broth.
Arborio vs carnaroli for mushroom risotto
Both are Italian short grain rices with a high content of amylopectin, the starch that thickens risotto. Either one works here.
Arborio is the easy one to find. It releases starch readily and gives a creamy result, but its grains soften faster, so the window between perfectly cooked and mushy is narrow. Carnaroli has a firmer core and holds its shape longer, which makes it more forgiving if the timing slips by a couple of minutes. Vialone nano, common in the Veneto, cooks a little faster and gives a looser, wavier risotto.
What you shouldn't use is long grain rice, basmati or jasmine. They don't have enough of the right starch, so the sauce stays thin and the grains separate. Don't rinse risotto rice either. The loose starch on the surface is part of what makes the dish creamy.
Hot broth, steady stirring and the all'onda finish
Cold broth drops the temperature in the pot every time you add it, so the rice stalls and cooks unevenly. Keep the broth at a bare simmer on the next burner, with thyme sprigs steeping in it. Stir every 20 or 30 seconds, which rubs the grains together and loosens starch, and add the next ladle when the spoon leaves a clear trail on the bottom. Too hot and the liquid evaporates before the rice absorbs it.
Start tasting about 16 minutes after the first ladle. It's ready when:
- The grains are tender with a small, firm core when you bite one.
- The rice looks suspended in a thick, glossy sauce rather than sitting in liquid.
- A spoonful dropped onto a plate spreads into a soft mound. Italians call this all'onda, like a wave.
Take it off the heat a little looser than you want to eat it, since the cheese thickens it further.
Serving and reusing leftover wild mushroom risotto
This is filling enough to be dinner with nothing but a green salad, and an autumn harvest salad with a sharp vinaigrette cuts through the butter and cheese. Three or four pan seared scallops on top turn it into a restaurant plate. Warm the bowls in a low oven first, because risotto seizes up quickly on a cold plate.
For leftovers, the USDA's leftovers and food safety guidance says to refrigerate within 2 hours and use within 3 to 4 days. Reheated risotto is never quite as loose, so turn it into arancini instead. Roll cold risotto into balls around a cube of mozzarella, bread them and fry at 350°F until golden. The starch that made the risotto creamy is exactly what holds the balls together.
The recipe
Wild Mushroom Risotto with Thyme and Parmesan
Ingredients
For the mushrooms
- 1 lb (450 g) mixed mushrooms (cremini, shiitake, oyster, maitake), sliced or torn
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- Kosher salt
For the risotto
- 5 cups (1.2 L) low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
- 4 sprigs fresh thyme, plus 1 teaspoon leaves for serving
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 2 medium shallots, finely diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 1/2 cups (300 g) carnaroli or arborio rice
- 3/4 cup (180 ml) dry white wine
- 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed
- 3/4 cup (60 g) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- Warm the broth. Bring the broth and thyme sprigs to a bare simmer in a saucepan, then turn the heat to low and keep it hot on a back burner.
- Sear the mushrooms. Heat 1 tablespoon oil and half the butter in a large skillet over high heat. Add half the mushrooms in a single layer, cook untouched for 3 minutes, then toss and cook 2 minutes more until golden. Salt lightly, move to a plate and repeat with the rest.
- Soften the aromatics. In a heavy pot over medium heat, warm 1 tablespoon oil and 1 tablespoon butter. Cook the shallots for 3 minutes until soft and translucent, then add the garlic for 30 seconds until fragrant.
- Toast the rice. Add the rice and stir for 2 minutes, until every grain is coated and the edges look slightly translucent. Pour in the wine and stir until it's almost fully absorbed, about 2 minutes.
- Add the broth. Add hot broth one ladle at a time, stirring every 20 to 30 seconds and adding more when the spoon leaves a clear trail. Keep a gentle bubble. After 18 to 22 minutes the rice should be tender with a slight bite and the risotto loose and flowing.
- Finish off the heat. Take the pot off the heat. Beat in the cold butter and Parmesan vigorously for 30 seconds until glossy, then fold in the mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper and add a splash of broth if it has tightened.
- Serve right away. Spoon into warmed shallow bowls and top with thyme leaves, more Parmesan and black pepper.
Cook's notes
- For deeper flavor, soak 1/2 oz (15 g) dried porcini in 1 cup hot water for 20 minutes. Chop them into the rice and replace 1 cup of broth with the strained soaking liquid.
- For a vegetarian version, use vegetable broth and a hard cheese made with microbial rennet, since traditional Parmigiano-Reggiano uses animal rennet.
- Served in smaller portions, it works as a side for lemon herb roast chicken.
- Leftovers make good arancini: roll cold risotto around mozzarella, bread and fry at 350°F until golden.
Wild Mushroom Risotto questions
How far ahead can I par-cook risotto for a dinner party?
Up to a day. Cook the risotto for about 12 minutes after the first ladle of broth, so the rice is still quite firm, then spread it on a sheet pan to cool quickly and refrigerate. When you're ready to eat, return it to the pot with hot broth and cook for 6 to 8 minutes before finishing with butter and cheese.
What can I use instead of white wine in mushroom risotto?
Replace the wine with the same amount of hot broth, then stir 1 to 2 teaspoons of lemon juice or white wine vinegar into the finished risotto along with the butter and cheese. The acid gives back the brightness the wine would have added, so the rich mushrooms and Parmesan don't taste flat or heavy.
Why is my risotto gluey instead of creamy?
Gluey risotto usually comes from overcooking or too little liquid at the end. The grains break down and release too much starch. Pull the pot off the heat while the rice still has a small firm core, and keep it loose enough to spread on a plate. A splash of hot broth before serving loosens a risotto that has tightened.
Do dried porcini work without any fresh mushrooms?
They do. Soak 1 1/2 oz (45 g) of dried porcini or a dried mushroom blend in 2 cups of hot water for 20 minutes, chop them, and add them with the shallots. Strain the soaking liquid through a paper towel and use it in place of 2 cups of broth. The flavor is deeper, though you lose the crisp seared texture.
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