Pan seared scallops with brown butter need three things: dry scallops, a very hot pan and the patience to leave them alone. Eight large sea scallops sear in oil for a golden crust, then a brown butter sauce with capers and lemon comes together in the same skillet. It takes about 16 minutes and serves two.
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Why do brown butter and capers suit scallops?
Scallops are sweet and mild, and brown butter is nutty and rich. Capers bring salt and a sour pop, and the lemon keeps the whole thing from feeling heavy. Making the sauce in the searing pan picks up every bit of browned fond the scallops leave behind, so nothing is wasted.
Turn the heat down to medium before adding the butter, or it'll burn on contact with the hot pan. It foams hard at first. Swirl the pan and watch the milk solids at the bottom: they go from white to tan to a deep golden amber in about 60 to 90 seconds, and the butter smells like toasted hazelnuts. That's the moment to add the capers, which sputter and crisp in about 15 seconds. Pat them dry first, or they spit.
Take the pan off the heat before adding the lemon juice. The cool liquid stops the browning at once. If the butter goes past amber toward black and smells acrid, wipe the pan out and start again. It only costs a minute.
Dry vs wet packed scallops: which should you buy?
Buy dry packed scallops whenever you can. Wet packed scallops have been soaked in a phosphate solution that helps them hold water. They weigh more at the register, they release that liquid in the pan, and they almost never brown properly.
| Dry packed | Wet packed | |
|---|---|---|
| Color | Ivory, beige or slightly pink | Bright, uniform white |
| Surface | Tacky, a little sticky | Slick, sitting in milky liquid |
| Smell | Clean and briny | Faintly chemical or soapy |
| In the pan | Browns in about 90 seconds | Leaks liquid and steams |
| Price | Higher per pound | Lower, but part of the weight is water |
If the label doesn't say, ask at the fish counter. Frozen scallops labeled dry or chemical free work well too. Look for U10 or U12, meaning fewer than 10 or 12 per pound. Smaller bay scallops cook in seconds and won't form much of a crust.
What makes the crust form in 90 seconds?
A crust forms when the surface of the scallop gets hot enough to brown before the center overcooks. Every step in the method serves that goal.
- Dry them twice. Pat them with paper towels, set them on a fresh towel for 10 minutes, then pat again just before seasoning.
- Use the right pan. Use a titanium-surface skillet with enough flat space for gaps between the scallops.
- Preheat as directed. Follow the pan instructions and use controlled heat, adjusting if the oil smokes.
- Leave space. An inch between scallops keeps steam from building up.
- Don't move them. They stick at first, then release once the crust has formed.
Season with salt right before they go in the pan. Salting early draws moisture back to the surface, which is exactly what you spent 10 minutes removing.
How long do sea scallops sear on each side?
Large sea scallops need about 90 seconds on the first side and 60 to 90 seconds on the second. The sides turn from translucent to opaque as they cook, so watch the band of color creep up from the bottom. When you flip them, the seared side should be a deep golden brown. Placing them in a clockwise circle and turning them in the same order keeps every scallop on the same clock.
For food safety, the USDA safe minimum temperature chart lists 145°F for fish and shellfish. At that point a scallop is opaque all the way through and feels firm with a slight spring. It's still moist. Scallops only turn rubbery when they go well past that. Many restaurants serve them with a translucent center, but if you're cooking for anyone pregnant, older or with a weakened immune system, cook them fully to 145°F, checked with a thermometer slid in from the side.
Plating scallops so the butter has somewhere to go
Scallops cook so quickly that the sides should be ready first. Have the plates warm and everything else on the table before the pan goes on the heat. The brown butter is the best part, so serve them on something that soaks it up.
A spoonful of wild mushroom risotto under three or four scallops makes the classic restaurant plate, and the butter runs into the rice. A small portion of cacio e pepe with scallops on top is rich but quick. For something lighter, dressed greens or a smooth cauliflower puree work, with crusty bread for the pan. As a starter, plan on two or three scallops per person. As a main, four to five is a generous serving.
The recipe
Pan Seared Scallops with Brown Butter and Capers
Ingredients
- 8 large dry packed sea scallops (about 12 oz / 340 g), side muscle removed
- 1 tablespoon high smoke point oil, such as avocado or grapeseed
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon capers, drained and patted dry
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (about half a lemon)
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Flaky sea salt, for serving
Instructions
- Dry the scallops. Pull off the small rectangular side muscle if it's still attached. Pat the scallops very dry, set them on a plate lined with a fresh paper towel and leave them uncovered for 10 minutes.
- Heat the pan. Heat a large titanium-surface skillet over medium high heat following the pan preheating instructions. Pat the scallops dry once more and season both sides with fine salt and pepper.
- Sear the first side. Add the oil and swirl to coat. Place the scallops in the pan in a clockwise circle, an inch apart, and sear without moving for about 90 seconds, until a deep golden crust forms.
- Flip and finish. Turn them in the same order you placed them and sear the second side for 60 to 90 seconds, until the sides are opaque and the scallops feel firm with a slight spring. Move them to a warm plate.
- Brown the butter. Lower the heat to medium and add the butter. Swirl for 60 to 90 seconds, until the foam subsides and the solids turn golden amber and smell nutty. Add the capers and let them crisp for 15 seconds.
- Sauce and serve. Take the pan off the heat, stir in the lemon juice, and spoon the brown butter and capers over the scallops. Finish with parsley and flaky salt and serve right away.
Cook's notes
- If your skillet won't hold all eight scallops with an inch between them, sear in two batches and wipe out any dark bits between them.
- Frozen scallops work well. Thaw them overnight in the fridge on a paper towel lined plate, never in water.
- A grilled Caesar salad on the side makes a lighter dinner out of the same plate.
- Scallops are best eaten straight from the pan. Leftovers turn rubbery when reheated, so slice them cold into a salad instead.
Pan Seared Scallops questions
Why are my scallops rubbery?
Rubbery scallops are overcooked. Large sea scallops need only about 90 seconds on the first side and 60 to 90 seconds on the second over high heat. Past that, the proteins tighten and squeeze out moisture. Wet packed scallops can also turn rubbery because they steam in their own liquid for longer before they brown.
What is the side muscle on a scallop?
The side muscle is a small, tough rectangular strip on the side of the scallop that attached it to the shell. It turns chewy when cooked. Pinch it between your fingers and peel it away before drying and seasoning. Some scallops are sold with it already removed, so check each one quickly as you pat them dry.
How should I prepare a titanium pan for scallops?
Follow the pan's preheating instructions, add a thin layer of suitable cooking oil and dry the scallops carefully before they go in. Leave space between them and let the first side brown before checking release. Reduce the heat if oil smokes heavily or the edges darken before the centers can cook.
How many sea scallops should I buy per person?
For a main course, plan on four to five large sea scallops per person, about 6 ounces. As a starter or on top of pasta or risotto, two to three per person is enough. Large U10 scallops weigh roughly 1 1/2 ounces each, so a pound gives you about ten scallops for two to three people.
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