Shrimp Tacos with Mango Salsa and Lime Crema

Why pair chili shrimp with a mango salsa?

The shrimp carry chili powder, cumin and smoked paprika, which are smoky and a little bitter. Mango brings sugar and juice, lime brings sour, jalapeño brings heat and red onion brings crunch, so each bite balances itself. You need a ripe mango, one that gives slightly when pressed and smells fruity at the stem. Ataulfo (honey) mangoes are less fibrous and easy to dice; Tommy Atkins are larger and firmer.

• Slice the two cheeks off either side of the flat seed, score the flesh in a grid without cutting through the skin, then scoop the cubes out with a spoon.
• Dice the red onion finely and rinse it under cold water for a few seconds to take off the harsh bite.
• Seed the jalapeño for mild heat, or leave some seeds for more.
• Add the lime juice and salt last, then taste. A pinch more salt usually brings the mango forward.

Let the salsa sit for 10 minutes while you cook. Don't make it more than a day ahead, since the mango softens and weeps.

Corn vs flour tortillas for shrimp tacos

Corn tortillas are the traditional choice for seafood tacos in Mexico. Their toasty, slightly nutty flavor stands up to spice and lime, and they're naturally gluten free. Flour tortillas are softer and sturdier, which some people prefer for loaded tacos. Both work here.

Whichever you use, warm them properly. Cold corn tortillas crack and taste of raw masa. Heat a dry skillet or comal over medium high heat and warm each tortilla for 20 to 30 seconds per side, until it's soft and lightly spotted. You can also hold them with tongs over a gas flame for a few seconds per side for a little char.

Stack them in a clean kitchen towel as they come off the heat. The trapped steam keeps them soft for 15 minutes or more. Small street taco tortillas, about 4 1/2 inches, are often doubled up; standard 6 inch corn tortillas hold together fine on their own.

Which shrimp count should you buy for tacos?

Shrimp are sold by count, the number per pound. A lower number means bigger shrimp. For tacos, you want them large enough to stay juicy but small enough to fit three or four in a tortilla.

Most shrimp at the store have been frozen, even at the seafood counter, so buying them frozen is often fresher. Look for raw shrimp without added sodium tripolyphosphate. Thaw them overnight in the fridge or in a colander under cold running water for about 5 minutes.

How do you keep shrimp from getting rubbery?

Shrimp go from raw to overcooked in less than a minute, so it comes down to heat and attention. A very hot pan browns the outside quickly, and a single layer means they sear instead of simmering in their own juices. If your skillet is under 12 inches, cook them in two batches.

Watch the shape and color. Raw shrimp are gray and translucent. Done shrimp are pink and opaque all the way through and curl into a loose C. A tight O means they've gone too far. The USDA safe temperature chart puts shellfish at 145°F, and shrimp hit that at about the moment they turn opaque in the center.

Take the pan off the heat and squeeze lime over the shrimp right away. They keep cooking from the residual heat. The same hot, fast approach works for pan seared scallops if you want to try it with other shellfish.

A make-ahead plan for taco night

The shrimp should be cooked right before you eat, but nearly everything else can be done in advance. Here's how to split the work:

1. Up to 3 days ahead, stir together the lime crema and refrigerate it in a covered jar.
2. Up to 1 day ahead, shred the cabbage and store it in a zip-top bag with a damp paper towel.
3. Up to 1 day ahead, make the salsa but leave out the cilantro and salt; add them just before serving.
4. Up to 1 day ahead, peel and devein the shrimp and keep them covered in the fridge.

Set everything out taco bar style and let people build their own. It's an easy way to feed a crowd. A grilled Caesar salad makes a good side if you've got the grill going, and a light berry pavlova finishes a summer meal without much work.