Brioche French Toast with a Vanilla Cinnamon Custard

Why brioche needs to be a little stale

Fresh brioche is soft, rich and full of moisture already. Soak it in custard and the crumb gives way, so the slices tear when you lift them and stay wet in the middle no matter how long they cook. Slightly dry bread works like a sponge: the open crumb pulls in custard and still holds its shape.

A loaf left out overnight, sliced or loosely wrapped, is ideal. If yours is fresh, slice it 1 inch thick, lay the slices on a wire rack set over a sheet pan, and bake at 300°F for about 10 minutes, turning once. They should feel dry on the surface and a little firm, but not toasted or colored. Let them cool for a few minutes before soaking.

Slice thickness matters as much as dryness. Thinner than 3/4 inch and brioche turns floppy; thicker than 1 1/4 inches and the center struggles to cook before the outside gets too dark.

Brioche vs challah vs sandwich bread

Any sturdy bread makes decent french toast, but rich breads with egg and butter in the dough give that soft, custardy middle. Each one needs a slightly different soak.

Brioche is the most delicate of these, which is why the soak is short. It absorbs fast, and pressing or leaving it in the dish too long is how slices fall apart on the way to the pan. Use a wide spatula, not your fingers, to move them.

How much custard does each slice need?

Plan on about 1/3 cup of custard per 1 inch slice, which works out to 4 eggs, 1 cup of whole milk and 1/2 cup of heavy cream for eight slices. That ratio leans toward dairy. Too much egg and the outside cooks into a rubbery, omelet like shell; too little and the center never sets.

• Whisk until fully smooth. Streaks of white cook into slick patches on the surface.
• Use a shallow dish. A 9 by 13 inch baking dish lets you soak two slices at once in an even layer.
• Soak, then drain. Lift each slice and let it drip for a few seconds so it doesn't puddle in the pan.
• Stir between batches. The cinnamon settles to the bottom, so the last slices miss out unless you whisk again.

The sugar in the custard is small, 2 tablespoons, but it's what browns into a lacquered crust. Leave it out and the slices will brown paler and taste flatter.

Is the custard in the middle cooked through?

With thick slices, the outside can look perfect while the center is still liquid egg. The USDA safe minimum temperature chart lists 160°F for egg dishes, and that's the number to aim for in the center of each slice.

Frying alone rarely gets 1 inch brioche there without burning the crust. So after both sides are golden, move the slices to a wire rack over a sheet pan in a 300°F oven for 5 to 8 minutes. The gentle heat finishes the middle while the crust stays crisp.

To check, slide an instant read thermometer in from the side of a slice into the very center. Without one, press the middle with a fingertip: it should spring back and feel set, and no liquid should seep out when you cut into it. A done slice is moist and creamy inside, like bread pudding, not wet or glossy.

Why medium low heat makes the best crust

Brioche is full of butter and sugar, and the custard adds more. Both brown quickly. Over medium high heat the surface goes from golden to bitter in under a minute, long before the inside has warmed up. Medium low, with the butter foaming gently rather than spitting, gives you 3 to 4 minutes per side to build a deep, even, caramelized crust.

Use 1 tablespoon of butter and 1 teaspoon of neutral oil per batch. The oil raises the point at which the butter burns, and the butter gives flavor and color. Wipe the skillet out with a paper towel between batches; dark flecks of burned milk solids will otherwise stick to the next round.

A 12 inch titanium-surface skillet fits four slices of brioche. Crowding traps steam and softens the crust, so cook in two batches rather than squeezing in a fifth.

Toppings and timing for a brunch crowd

The oven finish does double duty when you're feeding a group. Every batch goes onto the same rack in the 300°F oven, so the first slices stay hot and crisp while the rest cook. Serve within 15 minutes of the last batch for the best texture.

Rich bread needs something sharp or fresh on top. Warm maple syrup and a spoon of tangy crème fraîche is the simplest. Fresh berries macerated with a little lemon juice, sliced bananas with toasted pecans, or a thin smear of salted butter and flaky salt all cut through the richness.

For a bigger spread, a Dutch baby pancake in a titanium skillet can bake in the oven at 425°F before you turn it down for the french toast. On the savory side, eggs Benedict with hollandaise shares the same warm oven and finishes the brunch table.